Clouds from Daria Edström

Jewellery, no matter how much you try to call it fragile and aquarellic, is usually strong, durable and rarely ephemeral. Metal has to withstand contact with the body, withstand the shocks of the environment; it is not some delicate flower that has emerged from under a fallen spring snow. But sometimes jewellery is built entirely on a foundation of emotions as fragile as snow, on memories and associations, on hunches and ephemeral vibrations. Sometimes there is not a gram of metal in the jewellery, but only epoxy resin, flattened to a film, turning into flower petals. Sometimes jewellery speaks of painting, or rather of the memory of painting, which is often even more fragile and intangible than trying to catch the vibrations of air or water with a brush. This is exactly what Joseph Mallord William Turner tried to do, whose golden clouds, mist on the water, boats merging with mist and water, cities merging with sky still envelop Tate Britain, draw you in and don’t let go, and that Impressionism, long before the Impressionists, still leaves an impression, no matter how far you go.

To Sweden, where Daria Edström attempts to translate that shimmer, that blue of the sky and gold of the clouds, onto the body, creating light, airy blossoms – like the rings of a flower/the ring for the hand – that are frightening in their fragility and vulnerability. The impression is so ephemeral and so strong, it cannot be left behind or shaken off for many years. The ring is like a splinter of those clouds and the shimmering landscape, a piece of art history, showing that always, whoever we are and however many years pass, we will always stop where the bridge emerges from the fog. Where the clouds descend into the sea.


Marytė Dominaitė-Gurevičienė, 2022, Lithuania

Relic by Marytė Dominaitė

Jewellers usually decorate the vulnerable, erogenous parts of the human body: the neck, earlobes, wrists. Fingers. Their work seems to show where the gaze should…

Carole Deltenre, 2022, France

Fragility by Carole Deltenre

It’s all so fragile, especially when the snow falls incessantly, thickening that fluffy white blanket of down on the stairs, railings, balconies, uncollected leaves, children’s…

Brune Boyer, 2022, France

Rings by Brune Boyer

The further I go, the clearer I see how people want to belong, and there are more and more of them. Those who protect their freedom like a dragoness protects…

Sofia Björkman, 2022, Sweden

Winter landscape by Sofia Björkman

The black winter pattern of bare branches, the tracks of sledges in the snow, the feet of birds tracing dotted trajectories through the untouched snow,…

Lisa Björke, 2022, Sweden

Unexped connections of Lisa Björke

The Swedish artist Lisa Björke creates unexpected connections between everyday objects and elements of traditional craftsmanship – materials and techniques. In METALLOphone, she looks back…

Dovilė Bernadišiūtė, 2022, Lithuania / Sweden

Transit spaces of Dovilė Bernadišiūtė

The Swedish-based Lithuanian jeweller refers to her objects as transit spaces. Thresholds, stops and stations, subways, and airports. These are spaces that don’t seem to…

Peter Bauhuis, 2022, Germany

Pin by Peter Bauhuis

Peter Bauhuis (Germany) talks about being somewhere and marking that presence. About ways to tell yourself and the world – you are here. I am…

Jordi Aparicio, 2022, Spain

Collier by Jordi Aparicio

The black netting, stacked in rectangular “bricks”, looks massive but is actually light. The black collier requires some kind of imaginary body, it seems that…

Andrea Auer, 2022, Austria

Pseudo-pearls of Andrea Auer

Andrea Auer (Austria) exhibits pseudo-pearls at METALLOphone. Large, obviously fake, much more pearl-like images, a derivative of what we imagine a pearl to be –…

Ines Almeida, 2022, Portugal

Place by Ines Almeida

Her places are the ones we remember that leave traces like a paintbrush leaves paint on watercolour paper. Brooches with paper, not enamel, fragile paper…

Debesys nuo Daria Edström

Daria Edström (SE). Juvelyrika, kad ir kiek bandytum ją vadinti trapia ir akvareliška, vistiek dažniausiai yra tvirta, patvari ir efemeriškumu retai pasižymi. Metalas turi atlaikyti susilietimą su kūnu, atremti aplinkos smūgius, čia jums ne kokia subtili gėlelė, išlindusi iš po sutežusio pavasarinio sniego. Bet kartais juvelyrika būna visa pastatyta ant trapaus kaip tęžtantis sniegas emocijų pamato, ant prisiminimų ir asociacijų, ant nuojautų ir efemeriškų virpesių. Kartais toje juvelyrikoje nėra nei gramo metalo, o tik iki plėvės išploninta epoksidinė derva, virstanti gėlės žiedlapiais. Kartais juvelyrika kalba apie tapybą, tiksliau – apie tapybos prisiminimus, kas dažnai yra dar trapiau ir labiau neapčiuopiama, nei bandymai teptuku sugauti oro ar vandens virpesius. Kaip tik tai bandė Joseph Mallord William Turner, kurio auksiniai debesys, rūkas ant vandens, laivai, susiliejantys su rūku ir vandeniu, miestai, susiliejantys su dangum iki šiol Tate Britain apsupa, įtraukia ir nepaleidžia, tas impresionizmas dar gerokai iki impresionistų palieka įspūdį, kad ir kiek toli paskui benueitum.

Kad ir į Švediją, kur Daria Edström tą virpėjimą, tą dangaus mėlynumą ir debesų auksą bando perkelti ant kūno, kurdama lengvus, orinius žiedus – kaip gėlės žiedus/ant rankos žiedus, gąsdinančius savo trapumu ir pažeidžiamumu. Ispūdis toks efemeriškas ir toks tvirtas, jo nei paliksi, nei nusikratysi daugybę metų. Žiedas kaip tų debesų ir virpančio peizažo atplaišėlė, meno istorijos gabaliukas, parodantis, kad visuomet, kas mes bebūtume, ir kad ir kiek metų praeitų, vistiek sustosim toje vietoje, kur tiltas išnyra iš rūko. Kur debesis nusileidžia į jūrą.


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